A California Wine For Those Who Love Rhone Varietals: Zaca Mesa

I recently had the pleasure of dining with Brook Williams, the president of Zaca Mesa winery. Zaca Mesa was founded in 1972 and is located in California’s Santa Ynez Valley, near Santa Barbara. (That would be southern California for those New Englanders who are unfamiliar with California’s geography.)

Although I had not previously met Brook, it was easy to pick him out as he entered the restaurant lugging a bag of Zaca Mesa wines.

Because California’s wine history is relatively new compared to Europe, the planting of vineyards has been subject to a great deal of experimentation. After experimenting with many different grape varietals, the growers at Zaca Mesa “got lucky” and discovered that their soil and climate were best suited to grapes most commonly associated with France’s Rhone Valley. These include the red grapes Syrah, Grenache, Mourvedre and Cinsault, and the white grape Rousanne.

Brook said his colleagues at Zaca Mesa are “farmers first.” He feels their wines are simply an expression of the fruit that grows best in their vineyards.

The first wine we tasted was their Chardonnay. This elegant, dry white paired nicely with oysters. However, as the “farmers” continue to find that the Rhone varietals are better suited to their property, Zaca Mesa Chardonnay will become harder and harder to find.

The other white that we tasted was their 2006 Rousanne, is an ageable white wine that shows more flavors at room temperature than it does chilled. It is an interesting alternative for members of the ABC (Anything But Chardonnay) Club.

As we turned to the red wines, I really enjoyed the 2006 Z Cuvée, a blend of the four red wines they grow on the property. I would call it a California Cotes du Rhone and it paired perfectly with my duck comfit appetizer.

Zaca Mesa also makes Syrah and a Black Bear Block Syrah from a specific area of their vineyards where black bears decided that they also enjoy Syrah. Both reds were medium-bodied with clean, bright black fruit flavors. The soft tannins on the finish indicate the wines should age nicely. Finally, their Z3 may best be described as Zaca Mesa’s Santa Barbara Chateauneuf du Pape.

Although Zaca Mesa’s wines are mainly sold in California, they are definitely worth seeking out for lovers of Rhone varietals. Their commitment to their vineyards is apparent in every bottle.

(Newtown resident and oenophile Steve Small is the general manager at Yankee Wine & Spirits on Queen Street.)