Romance Lives Year-Round

At Auberge Maxime

Auberge Maxime has been a fixture at the intersection of Routes 116 and 121 in North Salem, N.Y., since 1977. Owned and operated by Bernard and Heidi Le Bris since its inception, it was sold to Bernard’s brother Jean and his wife Sophie last year. Chef Stephen Briganti, a Johnson & Wales graduate, has been with the restaurant for three years, preparing contemporary French cuisine including the duck entrees and dessert soufflés for which Auberge Maxime is renown.

One menu change under the new ownership has been the addition of a shellfish selection, offering a half dozen oysters or a dozen clams, each $14, and two shellfish platters, $18 and $28. Monthly special theme evenings pairing the food and wine of a region, such as New England or Brittany, France, have also been introduced.

The atmosphere in the 70-seat dining room, with its dark beams and light walls and flooring, and fresh flowers on every table, is warm and romantic. In an interesting touch, the awaiting napkins are tied with pieces of chive. At the entry is a small bar where customers can wait for a table or takeout order or perhaps stop by for a plate of oysters or some other delicacy.

Closed Tuesday and Wednesday, Auberge Maxime offers lunch from noon to 2:30 four days a week and dinner from 5:30 to 9 on Monday and Thursday, until 10 on Friday and Saturday. A $29, three-course brunch is offered on Sunday from noon to 2:30, then the dinner menu is served till 8.

The menu changes seasonally and each day offers a special soup, appetizer, and meat and fish entrees.

Current lunch offerings include choice of seven appetizers — escargot in pastry with spinach, shitake in garlic and red wine sauce, $9; Belgian endive salad with toasted walnuts, Roquefort and sherry vinaigrette, $8; and a soup du jour, $7 — and seven entrees. These range from roasted breast of chicken, $14, to sliced top sirloin of lamb, $16, to classic duck a l’orange, $18. Desserts include fresh fruit sorbets and angel food cake with mango and strawberries, $6 each, and Grand Marnier or seasonal soufflés, $10.

Dinner appetizers include sautéed foie gras with poached quince, $15, and sea scallops with parsnip puree and white truffle oil, $12. Among the entrees are steak au poivre, $26, salmon medallions with Brussels sprouts, and duck confit over frisee salad, $23. Dessert offerings include the soufflés, $12,  crème brulee, $8, and a cheese plate, $11.

The lower level houses a private room accommodating up to 30 people and the restaurant’s extensive wine cellar, offering 120–150 French and American selections covering the casual drinker to connoisseur, priced from $25 per bottle to $2,200. Several wines and ports are also available by the glass.

The private room opens onto an outdoor patio  that accommodates an additional 20–30 diners during the warmer months. The patio overlooks a lawn and gazebo that can be used for weddings and private parties and provides unobstructed views to the hills beyond.

Auberge Maxime, 721 Titcus Road (Routes 116 and 121), North Salem, N.Y.;  914-669-5450, www.aubergemaxime.com. Closed Tuesday and Wednesday; open for lunch (noon to 2:30) and dinner (5:30 to 10) Monday, Thursday, Friday and Saturday; Sunday from noon to 8 pm.

Directions: Interstate 84 West to the first New York exit, 21 (North Salem). Turn left at the stop sign onto Route 121 South and travel 3½ miles to the intersection with Route 116.

Sliced Duck Breast With Swiss Chard & Figs

2 18–20 oz Pekin duck breasts

2 bunches green Swiss chard, stems removed & blanched

8 figs, quartered

2 Tbs minced shallot

4 oz balsamic vinegar

4 oz port wine

2 Tbs red currant jelly

2 cups veal stock (substitute duck stock if available)

 Remove all silver skin from duck breast and lightly score skin side, season with salt and pepper.

 Heat pan to extremely hot temperature and pace breast in skin side down. Continuously drain of fat until golden brown. Reduce heat to low and continue to render fat until skin is thin and crisp.

 Raise heat to high again and quickly sear the flesh side.

 Place on oven proof baking dish, skin side down, and cook in a pre-heated 450-degree oven for 6–8 minutes until medium rare.

 Drain excess fat out of sauté pan and add the shallot and figs. Sauté to lightly translucent and deglaze with balsamic vinegar.

 Reduce to almost dry and add port wine.

 Reduce to ½ cup and add veal stock, reduce by half and set aside.

 Remove breast from oven and allow to rest 5 minutes. Quickly sauté Swiss chard in 2 Tbs olive oil and season with salt and pepper.

Drain off excess liquid and divide evenly in center of 4 plates.

Warm sauce and whisk in currant jelly.

Thinly slice duck and shingle around the Swiss chard. Drizzle sauce and figs evenly around 4 plates.

Serve immediately.

Serves 4