Some People Go To The Country

For The Air, Others Go For

The Eau De Vie

It was a cool, sunny day as I traveled east on I-84. Upon reaching my destination in Ashford, I was greeted by the familiar smell of fermenting fruit. However, the fruit was apples, not grapes, and their ultimate use was brandy, not wine. I had arrived at Westford Hill Distillers to learn more about the production of brandy and eau de vie.

Westford Hill Distillers was founded in 1999 by Margaret and Louis Chatey. They are entrepreneurs and artisanal distillers devoted to the production of high quality spirits.

Eau de vie is a term that literally means water of life. It is the earliest known example of distilled alcohol and was used for medicinal purposes. Although many may still consider distilled spirits to be medicinal, eau de vie in today’s marketplace is a clear, unsweetened brandy made from fresh fruit.

Westford Hill produces kirsch from Montmorency cherries grown in upstate New York and their gold medal winning Pear William with fruit from Connecticut. Fraise and Framboise are made from West Coast grown strawberries and raspberries respectively. The spirits are dry, with clean fruit notes in both aroma and taste. The long lasting aftertaste makes them a perfect accompaniment to a fruit based dessert

Don’t worry, I did not forget about the apples. Initially, about 270 bushels of six different varieties were delivered to the Chateys from Connecticut’s Lyman Orchards. The apples were then processed into an apple mash and fermented in a 1,200 gallon tank.

Some of the fermented apple mash is then pumped into a copper still and distilled into clear apple brandy. After 21 distillation runs and eight to ten years of aging in small oak barrels, about 52 gallons of apple brandy is ready to be bottled. The final product is a smooth, medium-bodied, golden liquid with spice honey, caramel and vanilla notes. It is the quality equivalent of a fine cognac.

My trip revealed what an incredible amount of fruit, time, and labor it takes to make fine brandy and eau de vie. However, “an apple brandy a day keeps the doctor away” does have a nice ring to it!

(Newtown resident and oenophile Steve Small is the general manager at Yankee Wine & Spirits on Queen Street.)