Date: Fri 05-Mar-1999

Publication: Bee

Author: SHANNO

Quick Words:

brides-tuxedo-Perry-Ellis

Full Text:

BRIDES: Revisiting The Masterpiece That Is The Tuxedo

(with cut)

The tuxedo, one of the few remaining articles of "upper class" attire, is

continually revived because, well, let's face it: all men look good in a

tuxedo. The tuxedo endures with unique and stylish accessory options that

continually change to conform to the tastes of current society. With a little

imagination and improvisation, the tuxedo can be personalized and accessorized

with an original twist without compromising the genius of its form.

While no two wedding celebrations are the same, the tuxedo is a tried and true

wedding tradition. According to survey results found in the July/August 1998

issue of Bridal Guide magazine, tuxedos are worn by over 96 percent of all

grooms.

Introduced in the mid 19th Century, the dinner jacket was originally designed

to be used for dinner in the privacy of one's home or club. Legend has it the

first model of the shortened jacket was introduced in America in 1886 by

Griswald Lorrilard, who sported his version to an autumn ball at a

millionaire's club in Tuxedo Park, N.Y.

From the late 19th Century through the early 1920s, black tie attire continued

as an option at home or at the men's club. However, an evening in public

required white tie. By the 1930s, the dinner jacket -- a fusion of the

tailcoat and lounge suit -- was replacing the full dress coat and white tie.

Today the tuxedo exists as an evolution of the original design: The tuxedo

continues to infuse the wearer with an heir of sophistication through its long

association with the upper class.

Today the tuxedo is available in a variety of cuts, lapels and button

treatments. "Tuxedo choices are no longer a one-button, single-breasted style

or a two-button, double-breasted style," says Joseph Glah, the executive vice

president for Smalls Formalwear..

The Perry Ellis Gatsby, an Exclusive Premier Design Collection tuxedo from

Smalls Formalwear, is a six-on-three double-breasted tuxedo. With satin peak

lapels and satin flap pockets, the look is flattering for men young and old

alike.

The Perry Ellis Lido, a new style for the fall 1998 season, features a higher

button, single-breasted closure. A fashion treatment unique for this

particular tuxedo was the addition of an exterior short satin ticket pocket

above the traditional satin besom pocket.

For spring 1999, no one accepted the challenge of creating a unique

multi-button style more than Andrew Fezza. Mr Fezza, the recipient of numerous

awards and honors for design excellence, carried his unique combination of

European style and understanding of the American active lifestyle into his new

formalwear collection.

The Cannes, a five-button single-breasted notch tuxedo, combines the modern

styling of its non-vented back and double besom angled pockets with a

traditional tapered torso to create an ultra-modern look.

Monsieur Givenchy is another new designer line in the tuxedo market for the

spring, with an Exclusive Premier Design Collection developed by Smalls

Formalwear. Hubert de Givenchy, who opened his House of Givenchy in 1952,

lends his name and style philosophy of refining the silhouette with his new

rental collection. It is the button options of the Monsieur Givenchy tuxedo

that offer a coordinated look for the groom and his best man or groomsmen.

A spring formalwear collection would not be complete without a white tuxedo.

The Manor by Perry Ellis, a single-breasted notch lapel tuxedo, is a fresh

wedding look for the new millennium. The double besom pockets create a slick,

breezy look perfect for spring or summer weddings, where good looks are as

important as keeping cool and comfortable.

The Canterbury from After Six, a one-button, single-breasted tuxedo, has a

unique style feature that sets it apart from other peak lapel tuxedos. The

Canterbury features a "floor level peak" quite different from the traditional

pointed peak. This new peak non-vented jacket, combined with double-besom

pockets, adds style and class to any formal affair.

The Royal, a notch lapel tuxedo with double besom pockets, has a one-button

single-breasted closure. The Ritz, with its three button single-breasted

closure, rejuvenated this fashion-oriented style.

Accessories are also making a departure form previous practice.

"The men's formalwear ads in Modern Bride magazine no longer feature just wing

and laydown collar shirts," points out Andrea DiFabio of Formalwear

Promotions, the advertising agency for Smalls Formalwear. A new formal shirt

called The Heat is a modern addition to the formal ensemble staple. The Heat

features a contemporary contour spread collar piped with black satin and set

on bosom of 3/4-inch pleats.

Also available is a shirt called The Zephyr, a French blue wing tip formal

shirt that is a colorful addition to the Perry Ellis line. The shirt features

contemporary 3/4-inch pleats and is one of the few formal shirts that is not

white or ivory. The Parisian, another wing tip shirt, features an elongated

wing collar, a perfect complement to the new wider knot Euro four-in-hand ties

available for spring.

High stance, full-back vests are displacing the cummerbund as the complemental

accessory to the tuxedo. The Exclusive Premier Designs Collection features The

Donovan Vest Collection, with a snow crystal pattern on the front of the vest

and a coordinating color stripe on the back. The fashion-forward high-neck

vests are shown with a striped ascot or can be worn with a matching bow tie.

For a unique and decorative look, the bow tie can be updated to a button cover

or collar enhancer.

The Intrigue Vest Collection, another selection of choices, is available in 18

colors, including some of the hottest bridesmaids' colors across the country

-- traditional or pastel. These vests feature a gradation style sure to pump

up the style quotient at any special occasion.

Personalized tuxedo trousers are options, also. Very popular is a black

fashion box pleated trouser which has a front accented with a fashion forward

second pocket seam. Complete with an adjustable waist mechanism for added

comfort and fit, the look is ideal for year-round style.

The newest trend, according to Smalls Formalwear, is the addition of color to

enable the trouser to stand out from the black tuxedo jacket. Brown tuxedo

trousers have been added to the mix for Spring '99. The look is a perfect

complement to an ivory jacket and brown and ivory two-tone wing tip show.

And for those men who need to keep up with the trendy little details of the

fashion world, there is also a trouser option for them. The wide bottom leg

trouser, The Allegro, features a 25-inch wide leg. A satin side stripe and

single pleat front gives these trousers contemporary status.

Formal ensembles would not be complete without a comfortable and elegant shoe.

"Shoes have come a long way. Formal shoes have become a unique expression of

an individual's tastes and preferences," says Michael Andrien, the executive

vice president rental merchandise buyer for Smalls Formalwear.

No matter what transformation or change in appearance the tuxedo makes over

the years, men still look great in them. The tuxedo transcends the upper class

attire distinction and remains in a class by itself.