Date: Fri 18-Jul-1997

Publication: Bee

Author: SHIRLE

Quick Words:

Wine-Wisdom-trends-Merlot

Full Text:

WINE WISDOM: A Changing Of The Guard Concerning Favorite Choices

By Steve Small

As our wine tastes continue to grow and change, different wines gain and lose

popularity. Chardonnay continues to reign as the most popular white varietal

wine in the United States. Cabernet Sauvignon used to be the most popular red

varietal wine. Although Cabernet is still quite popular, there is no doubt

Merlot is currently the wine of choice for legions of red wine drinkers.

I have sipped Chardonnays that cover a wide range of tastes. All Chardonnays

are dry, white wines. However, some are drier than others. They can range from

very light to quite full-bodied. Other flavors found in Chardonnay can include

a buttery taste, achieved from a process called malolactic fermentation; an

oakiness, which can be achieved by aging the wine in oak barrels; and most

importantly, the natural fruit of the Chardonnay grape. When the winemaker

achieves a nice balance of these characteristics, the result is a really good

bottle of wine.

There is a huge number of Chardonnays selling between $5 to $6 for a 750 ml

bottle. I find most of these wines are okay for everyday drinking, but

basically just light and dry. Two Chardonnays I have recently tasted that are

surprisingly flavorful and inexpensive are Gandia from Spain and Chile's Casa

Porta. In the $10 to $12-per-bottle price range, I recently enjoyed three

Chardonnays from California's Monterey County. They are Raymond Estates, J.

Lohr, and Hahn.

Behind the trendiness of being a Merlot drinker, is the delicious fruit in a

nice bottle of Merlot. Popular Merlots today have a soft and fruity quality

while still being dry, which is quite appealing. Merlots do not need to be

aged, although some can be. They are well matched to red meat, yet also

pleasant when enjoyed alone before a meal. There are many Merlots on the

market in the $4 to $7-a-bottle range that are light, dry, and generally

undistinguished. Forestville Merlot from California, and Merlots from Fortant

and Doulan in southern France are very good values. Although the price has

creeped up a bit, I can still highly recommend Columbia Crest Merlot and Hanna

Merlot for around $15 a bottle. In restaurants today, Chardonnay and Merlot

are as common as Chablis and Burgundy were ten years ago. Just remember that

Chardonnays and Merlots were not created equal. You still need to evaluate

what is in your glass to find the style of wine that you prefer.

(Steve Small is the proprietor of Steve's Liquor Store, in Ricky's Shopping

Center at 71 Main Street/Route 25 in Newtown.