Nourishments

The Organic Question And Its Many Possible Answers

By Nancy K. Crevier

When I first decided to make natural foods or whole foods, as I preferred to call them, a part of my lifestyle thirty years ago, it was pretty easy to discern them from conventional foods. For one thing, it generally required a special trip to a natural foods store or co-op. They also had labels affixed that announced them as “ALL NATURAL” and at that time, the label had meaning to myself, as well as others who frequented natural foods supermarkets.

It meant that there were no artificial colors or additives in the food, no added sugar, no added flavorings, nothing that wasn’t what the food professed to be. The packaging had no preservatives nor did the food, aside from perhaps ascorbic acid. If an ingredient was more than ten letters long and required scientific knowledge to pronounce, I scorned that item.

Then organics came along. The choice offered an opportunity to choose produce, meat, fish, chicken, and prepared foods that were not only pure, but raised ethically, as well.

Now I had to choose between natural and organic. Suddenly, natural wasn’t natural enough. I began to wonder if it ever had been truly natural if it wasn’t organic. But wait – then there was “100 PERCENT ORGANIC” labeling. Was organic not organic enough? What did it all mean?

It is a question that has haunted me for quite some time now, as natural foods, organic foods, and 100 percent organic foods have made their way into the mainstream. I think it is a quandary that I do not face alone.

According to a 2005 Food Marketing Institute (FMI) survey, more than eight out of ten shoppers buy organic foods. US retail sales of natural and organic foods and drink reached $23 billion in 2005, up from $20.2 billion the previous year, FMI reports, with organic fruits and vegetables making up 44 percent of organic food purchases. Consumers, it seems, are hungry for food that is unadulterated, healthy, and environmentally conscientious.

But a look at labels gives me doubt as to what is considered “natural” in the eyes of mainstream marketing. Just because an artificial sweetener is derived from an organic source, does that make it natural? When a cereal is overloaded with cane sugar or brown sugar, is it good for you? One day coconut oil is bad, the next week it is touted as a health food. Which is it? When a preservative is in the cardboard box, is the food in the box still natural? Not to me.

Foods labeled “natural” are not regulated by the government beyond the normal health codes for all foods. It is generally accepted that the term “natural” means foods that are minimally processed, have no artificial preservatives, sweeteners or additives, and which are not artificially colored or flavored. Hydrogenated oils generally are not acceptable in “natural” foods, nor are stabilizers. But because there are no government rules applicable to the labeling of “natural” foods, consumers would be wise to carefully read the labels to make sure that a “natural” food meets their own stringent criteria.

Natural meats and poultry, however, do have some standards required by the United States Department of Agriculture Food Safety and Inspection Service. They must not contain artificial colors, flavors, sweeteners, preservatives, or other synthetic ingredients. Natural meat and poultry have to be minimally processed.

But “natural” foods do not require a reference to how those foods were raised.

“Organic” food does require that not only the food is organic, but the source of the food, as well. The National Organic Program (NOP) requires food that is labeled “organic” to abide by some stiff regulations. Foods must be grown and processed using resources that incorporate recycling and which promote biodiversity. The crops cannot be grown with synthetic pesticides, petroleum-based fertilizers, or the use of bioengineered genetics. NOP insists that animals raised for food have access to the outdoors and be raised with no growth hormones. Nor is the administration of antibiotics admissible if a food wants to qualify as NOP organic.

What the consumer needs to know, though, is that even the  “organic” food industry has been manipulated somewhat to accommodate the growing demand for organics. A National List of Allowed Synthetic and Prohibited Non-Synthetic Substances exists, and farmers may use non-organic seeds and planting stock in certain conditions, according to the USDA. Vitamin and mineral supplements can be provided to livestock along with 100 percent organic feed. While the administration of antibiotics is not allowed, vaccination of livestock is permissible. Also, in cases where an animal’s well-being cannot be organically controlled, antibiotics can be used, so long as certain timing of the administering of the antibiotics as to when slaughtering or dairy production is scheduled is adhered to. In the eyes of some organic customers, these allowances may not equal “organic.”

Even thinking that buying organic meant that my chicken had led a happy life prior to its demise turns out to be an untruth. Livestock is only required to have access to the outdoors. Many so-called cage free or organic poultry continue to be raised in overcrowded conditions and their outdoor access, while available, is limited. Some creatures, of their own volition, may not even opt to access the outdoors. It is hardly the kinder, gentler environs I envision from the serene farm photos stamped onto the label.

Only products made with 100 percent organic ingredients can be labeled as such, according to NOP and when the product contains more than one ingredient, each ingredient must be listed. The statement “Certified organic by…” and the certifying agent’s name must appear on the label.

So where does that leave “organic” food? When a product consists of at least 95 percent organic ingredients, it can be regarded as “organic.” Just to confuse matters, the designation of  “made with organic ingredients” appears on some labels. This means that at least 70 percent of the ingredients are from organic sources.

What it boils down to for me is this: there are choices to be made. Even organic foods produced on giant farms somewhere far from where I live may improve the impact on the environment to some small extent. How much impact the production of food I buy makes on the earth, how humanely animals are raised for food, price, and quality must all be weighed. It is a personal choice, and one that may change from time to time.

In the meantime, I try to buy locally and seasonally whenever possible. I like to think that small, local farmers are producing food that make it possible for everyone to have healthful alternatives. Perhaps it is possible to change the world, one mouthful at a time.