Date: Fri 16-Jul-1999
Date: Fri 16-Jul-1999
Publication: Bee
Author: JEFF
Quick Words:
Tim-Spiro-Appalachian-Trail
Full Text:
From Georgia To Connecticut: Local Hiker Takes On The AT
(with cuts)
BY JEFF WHITE
On March 15 of this year, Newtown's Tim Spiro donned a 40-pound backpack,
braced himself against frigid temperatures, and took off from Springer
Mountain in Georgia's Chattahoochee's National Forest, the start of the famed
Appalachian Trail. The pack was so heavy, Tim recalls, that it rubbed his
sides raw and bloody. He decided to jettison everything in his pack that was
not essential for the hike, and trudged on. Four months later, he reached
Connecticut.
"I love it. The toughest decision I have to make everyday is what I'm going to
eat for dinner," Tim said recently while relaxing in his backyard off Grand
Place. "You have to love the lack of responsibility."
On the New York-Connecticut border, Tim was met by his father who transported
him back to Newtown for a break and a chance to earn money. Tim brought home
company as it turns out: a motley crew of through-hikers in desperate need of
hot meals, showers, and a break from the rigors of trail life. His back yard
resembles a tent city.
Tim intends to through-hike the Appalachian Trail (AT) -- that is, to hike
from Springer Mountain 2,150 miles north to Mount Katahdin in Maine's Baxter
State Park. Each year, 2,000 intrepid souls make those first awkward,
pack-burdened steps at the start of the AT; only about two dozen make it to
Katahdin's apex.
In between games of horseshoes, Tim reflected on the elements of making a
through-hike, while shedding light on the idiosyncrasies of trail life.
The first thing one learns when conversing with a group of AT through-hikers
is that none of them go by their real names. They all have trail names, labels
they receive from other hikers, usually meant to convey a unique
characteristic of the particular hiker.
"Some people pick their name before they start, but most wait until they do
something stupid on the trail. Then they get a name," Tim mused.
His trail name is "Dogman," a name he earned by hiking from Georgia to
Virginia with his chocolate Labrador. Sitting with "Dogman" last Saturday
afternoon was a gruff, gray-haired man from Suffolk, Virginia named "Sly Fox,"
another hiker with a southern drawl named "Living Water," and a young,
blond-hair Georgian named "Sierra."
What is even more remarkable is how much distance these names travel. Typical
banter among hikers involves reminiscing about various trail characters like
"Heavy Pack," or "Wyoming Cowboy," and amazingly everyone has heard of them,
though they may be a full month ahead or behind them on the trail. Trail
names, combined with other colorful vernacular, lends a distinct culture to
the AT, no doubt different from its original intention as a getaway for
work-weary urbanites.
In 1921, outdoor enthusiast Benton MacKaye presented an ambitious plan for a
long distance hiking trail to a friend of his named Charles Harris Whitaker.
Mr Whitaker was the editor of a scholarly architectural journal called The
Journal of the American Institute of Architects , and he published Mr
MacKaye's vision: a network of work camps for tired city dwellers itching to
discover and volunteer in nature.
The trail was to stretch the entire length of the Appalachian Mountains. It
did not take on its eventual destiny as a hiking trail until 1930, however,
when a Washington Lawyer named Myron Avery, an avid hiker, carried Mr
MacKaye's idea a step farther, breaking ground, clearing trees, and forming
what would eventually be called the AT. The trail was formally completed a
scant seven years later, on August 14, 1937.
In all, the AT runs over the top of more than 300 prominent peaks in the
mountain trail, meandering through 13 states, and rising to over 6,000 feet
above sea level in certain places. It is not the longest trail in the country;
the Pacific Crest and Continental Divide trails run longer. But it is
important because it was the first such trail in the country.
The millions of steps it takes to reach Maine are often marked by heartbreak.
There are tales of hikers quitting after two miles on the trail; there are
tales of the stout-hearted whimpering and throwing in the towel on the
approach trail to the start of the AT. It boils down to this indisputable
fact: it is a long, long way from Georgia to Maine.
And Tim knows this. He recalls moments on the trail when the desperation of
the endeavor, the monotony of the miles, almost broke his resolve. During the
500 mile section of the AT that slices through Virginia (the longest section
in any one state), Tim came down with what is known in trail parlance as "The
Virginia Blues."
"It was getting routine for me," he recalled. "The novelty of being on the
trail started to wear off."
But then "trail magic" sets in, something revered by all hikers when the
troubled, dark times of a trail funk become brightened by a random act of
kindness. Tim recalled ordinary citizens waiting at trail heads with hot food,
cold drinks, supplies.
"People will offer to take you back to their house for a shower and a hot
meal, or bring cold sodas to you on the trail. That keeps you going," he said,
with a smile.
On average, Tim logged 13 miles each day from Georgia, on some days hiking
much farther, on others not hiking at all. The going has become easier since
he shed much of his gear near the start of the trail.
"If you're not using it you shouldn't be carrying it. I use everything I
carry," he said, commenting on the common mistake of over-packing on the
trail.
There are, of course, those hikers that overdo it. They purchase thousands of
dollars worth of high tech sleeping bags, free standing tents, internal frame
backpacks, and fancy cooking stoves. Then they dump it all the moment their
shoulders cry out in agony.
Tim related tales of the opposite extreme, trail minimalists who attempt the
through-hike with a blanket and tarp to stay dry, cooking their meals in
makeshift stoves formed from tuna cans doused with lighter fluid and set
ablaze.
Even with being very selective with one's gear, Tim said that those wishing to
undertake a through-hike should expect to spend at least $1,000. This is not
counting the price of the food drops that many of the hikers rely on to
replenish their caches.
This past Wednesday, Tim resumed his mission toward Maine, with the
Connecticut section of the AT ahead of him: 52 miles stretching from Sherman
north to the peak of Bear Mountain in Salisbury.
Having completed 1,440 miles so far, the last 700 could prove the most
difficult. In particular, there is the infamous Hundred Mile Wilderness in
Maine, which many regard as the most remote section of the hike. The
wilderness traverses several peaks in the White Cap Range, along with the
watershed of the west branch of the Penobscot and Pleasant rivers.
Tim thinks he will top out on Katahdin in September, just ahead of the
Canadian chill that signals the changing of seasons in Baxter State Park.
"Right now, there are 10 reasons why I should quit the trail," Tim said, as he
scratched the beard he has been growing since Georgia. "But there are a
hundred reasons to keep going."