Date: Fri 01-Dec-1995

Publication: Bee

Author: SHANNO

Illustration: C

Location: A-10

Quick Words:

Gardener-Bleach-mulch-winter

Full Text:

Suburban Gardener/Winter Mulching

By Anthony C. Bleach

I guess we deserve a foot or two of snow this winter to insulate the garden

from winter's extremes, but probably the ground will be bare for at least part

of the winter. Also it is likely that one or two warm spells in January or

February will thaw frozen tissues and destroy the cellular structure very

efficiently.

The reason for mulching is not to keep the plants warm, but to keep the ground

frozen solid. This avoids the freeze-and-thaw cycles that damages tissues and

lifts plants out of the ground. Winter mulch insulates against sudden rises in

temperature which are the result of our brilliantly sunny winter days.

The most common mistake is to put it down too early before the ground has

frozen. But if you wait too long, your mulch will have frozen iron solid. So

keep in touch with soil conditions. After all, it is better to mulch a week

early than not be able to mulch at all.

Mulching in the fall can have two unfortunate consequences. The wood chips, or

whatever, are good cover for chipmunks, the chief predator of bulbs. Secondly,

mulching too early can interrupt the growth cycle of perennials. At this time

of year they are translocating sugars down into the storage roots as a

preparation for winter. Mulch put on when the ground is still soft can slow

the process, so when winter comes food reserves are still slender.

Any coarse, loose material can be used. Straw, hay, grass clippings

(uncontaminated with herbicide) wood chips or bark mulch are the least

expensive. Buckwheat or cocoa hulls are the prettiest. Leaves are acceptable,

but they tend to mat down and prevent water and air from reaching the roots.

Cass Peterson in The Times recommends putting down a layer of twigs first, but

you would still have runoff of snow melt and also the chore of raking it all

off in the spring, whereas leaves alone would decompose.

The mulch should be at least five inches deep and should be spread over the

whole area, including the crowns of the plants. Cutting back the dead stalks

will make it easier. If your garden is exposed to high winds, you may want to

hold it down with the sort of plastic netting that protects strawberries from

starlings. Evergreen boughs will work well too.

Some perennial vegetables and fruits will benefit from a winter mulch as well.

A layer of mulch over the asparagus bed will protect the crowns from heaving

and will also feed the young plants in the spring.

Strawberries have already set buds for next year's fruit in their crowns,

which should be mulched. Straw can be used, and there is also spun-polyester

"garden blankets" which can be left until late spring to protect the flowers

from frost.

You must mulch newly-planted small bulbs like crocuses and fall planted garlic

and horse radish. I was given some cuttings last week. The fragrance was

delicious! They will have had little time to develop anchoring roots and can

be heaved out of the ground by frost like birds from a nest unless you cover

them up.

(Anthony C. Bleach coordinates the certificate and degree programs in

horticulture at Naugatuck Valley Community-Technical College. This spring he

will be teaching "Famous Gardens & London Sites," a one-credit course in which

students can participate in an optional field trip to England.)