Autumn Bulbs Bring Springtime’s Blossoms

 

 

By Nancy K. Crevier

Everyone loves a grand display of tulips, iris, daffodils and crocus when Spring is in the air, but months before the first sprouts nudge aside the chilly soil and last clumps of snow, the planning, planting, and care that went into the garden plot has determined just how breathtaking that display will be.

“Now is the time to put in bulbs,” said Linda Whippie, garden center manager at Lexington Gardens on Church Hill Road, who along with Hollandia Nursery owner Eugene Reelick shared some thoughts on autumn plantings that can result in a spectacular spring.

 “If you can get a spade in the ground, you can put bulbs in anytime from now through December, really, but putting fall bulbs in during October gives them time to root in better,” Ms Whippie said.

Daffodil, crocus, iris, anemones, fritillaria and allium are all big sellers this time of year, said Ms Whippie, as are tulips. But the classic tulip has fallen into disfavor over the past several years in this area, due to gardeners’ frustration with deer eating the fruits of their labors. “The deer think that tulips are a big box of chocolates. People are just not buying tulips anymore,” she said, indicating a selection of tulip bulbs for sale that is greatly reduced from what would have been offered even five years earlier.

Mr Reelick agreed that tulip bulb sales are drastically down. As a matter of fact, he said, all bulb sales have decreased as the vole, squirrel, chipmunk, and deer populations have skyrocketed in the area.

“Bulb sales are declining overall. People just do not want to spend the money on buying expensive bulbs that are eaten by wildlife,” he said. Those gardeners who are determined to enjoy the colors wrought by spring-blooming bulbs, though, must take extra precautions when planting bulbs and utilize a variety of techniques to thwart mice, voles, and raccoons who would make a feast of tender bulbs, and of head off deer before they take the heads off of precious blossoms.

 One way is to plant flower varieties that wildlife do not care for, suggested Ms Whippie. Because deer scorn daffodils, gardeners looking for spring color have turned to putting in a wider variety of the dozens of daffodil species that exist. Double blossom daffodils, daffodils with bright orange centers, cream-colored daffodils, and daffodils in all shades of yellow offer gardeners many options for a beautiful spring display.

The fritillaria, a tall, delicate spring flower, is gaining in popularity, particularly the new chartreuse fritillaria, said Ms Whippie, because the lovely blossom gives off a distinctly smelly odor that repels wildlife (and some people, as well). Deer will also turn up their noses at any of the allium family, nor will they partake of the delicate snowdrop.

“Some folks have had luck with a product called Ro-Pel to keep away mice and raccoons,” said Ms Whippie. The product is sprayed on the bulb prior to planting. Dipping each bulb in full-strength Bobex concentrate and letting the bulbs dry fully before planting is another method that has proved useful in discouraging animal destruction of newly planted bulbs, “at least for the first year,” Ms Whippie said.

Serious gardeners might consider planting bulbs only in a specially netted and fenced off section of the garden to protect the tasty flowers from wildlife damage when they sprout, said Mr Reelick. He also suggests rotating three different repellents in one to two-week intervals of spraying to protect the new shoots.

“Using multiple repellents prevents deer from becoming ‘immune’ to a particular taste,” he said. Increase the frequency of spraying during the plant’s most active growth period, as well. As the plant grows, the new growth is not protected by earlier repellent applications. “There are many outstanding deer and wildlife repellents on the market,” he added, “but Bobex is one that I always include in the rotation. It works great.”

When extra care is taken at planting time, a healthy crop of flowers should bloom in spring. Traditionally, gardeners add fertilizer and bone meal to each hole dug for bulbs, said Ms Whippie, but the bone meal can actually attract raccoons and mice. “If you want the bulbs to be perennial, it is really better to fertilize in the spring when the plant first sprouts. Everything the bulb needs to grow well is really right there in the bulb,” she said.

Pick a sunny spot, if possible, when creating a bulb garden. Whether a person plants one bulb per hole, three bulbs per hole, or digs in a trench and fills it with bulbs for a swathe of spring color is strictly personal, said Ms Whippie.

Mr Reelick prefers mass plantings of like varieties.

“It is a more effective result than single spaced plantings, and looks just beautiful when a big mass of color blooms in the spring,” said Mr Reelick. Following a few simple steps will help make sure the bulbs survive the fall and winter and are in good health when they erupt in the spring, he said.

For mass plantings, Mr Reelick recommends planting 12 to 15 bulbs (treated, if desired with a deer and rodent repellent) in a 24-square-inch trench, 6 to 8 inches deep, for daffodils and tulips. Smaller bulbs, such as those for crocus, iris or fritillaria, require only a 4-inch deep trench or hole. Place the bulbs in the trench and then backfill with soil about three-quarters of the way up the bulbs. Sprinkle fertilizer next, then a layer of dried blood or mothball flakes to discourage rodents.

An important step that many people forget, said Mr Reelick, comes next: Water the bulbs thoroughly.

“Bulbs need water to be activated,” he said. “Without water, the bulb will not start growing and develop a strong root system before winter.”

Finally, fill in the trench with enough soil to mound over the top.

Each type of bulb will come with recommendations for the optimal planting depth, but when unsure, it is better to err on the side of planting a little deeper than not deep enough. A shallow hole or trench subjects the bulbs to a freeze and thaw process that is the biggest reason perennials fail to thrive, Ms Whippie said. Mulching the bulbs in late November or early December after a hard frost helps protect the bulbs without the danger of an earlier season mulch providing a snug harbor for rodents; and as winter truly sets in, consider cutting up the Christmas tree and laying the branches over the planted area as additional protection from an early thaw.

It does not really matter if the bulb is planted upside down or right side up. “It will find its way to the surface,” Ms Whippie assured, but for a display of flowers all one height, make sure all of the bulbs are laid in the hole the same way. A sprout that must grow at an angle to reach the surface will result in a shorter plant. Bulbs should be placed so that they do not touch each other in order to avoid rot, she recommended, and if you are talking bulbs, size does matter.

“The bigger the bulb, the more likely it will act as a perennial and come back strongly for three or more years. The smaller bulbs just don’t do as well,” she said.

When purchasing daffodil bulbs, said Mr Reelick, look for a large central bulb with at least one or two nodes attached. These bulbs may cost a bit more, but will provide the gardener with several blossoms per bulb than will the single bulbs that cost less.

“The single bulbs are called landscaping bulbs and are usually bought in bulk,” explained Mr Reelick. If a person is willing to sacrifice a good show of flowers the first year, landscaping bulbs will eventually “naturalize” and send out nodes that over the years will result in a better display. But most home gardeners, he said, are better off and happier if they select the larger bulbs to begin with.

Tulips do not develop nodes, and generally bloom for only two to three years, Mr Reelick said. To get the most out of a tulip bulb, look for bulbs that are at least 12 cm in size.

A hand held spade can dig a hole for bulbs as well as any other garden tool, but for less wear and tear on the knees and back, some shoppers at Lexington Gardens are loving the ergonomically designed bulb planter by Radius, or the awl-like Bulb Planter that connects to a cordless drill and swiftly spins out a nice, deep hole. “The awl is good if you are doing one bulb at a time,” Ms Whippie said, but for a bigger spread of bulbs, a good flat-edged spade does a fine job.

Be prepared to struggle if you select a bulb planter or awl, though, cautioned Mr Reelick. “Look at the names of the places around here — Stony Hill, Rock Ridge. It is just too rocky here for bulb planters. A good shovel is best, or what is called a ‘ladies’ shovel,’ a smaller shovel that is fantastic for planting,” he said. A crowbar wrapped with masking tape to mark a four-inch depth is a good tool for quickly and easily planting the small bulbs, he suggested.

When putting in a bulb garden, don’t forget to tend to established bulb gardens. A dose of a slow release bulb food before the snow falls will benefit bulbs planted in previous years, and the slow release foods are not as likely to attract pests. Again, a light sprinkle of moth ball flakes or dried blood will discourage pests.

Fall is also an opportune time to split up overgrown clumps of bearded iris and lilies, Mr Reelick and Ms Whippie said, providing additional plants for flowering in the spring.

“Most perennials and nursery stock thrive when planted in the fall,” said Mr Reelick. The long moist period from September to June provides plants with an extended period of time to acclimate and really root in well, as opposed to spring plantings that have only two or three months before the hot, dry days of summer.

Hosta plants can be divided in the fall, he said, and the best time to plant peonies for a lush display of blossoms in spring, is in the fall. Dividing plants in fall keeps plants healthier and makes for a stronger root system, said Mr Reelick.

Bulb gardens are a challenge, said Ms Whippie and Mr Reelick, but with forethought and devotion, a splendid array of springtime blossoms can be a gardener’s delight.