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Nourishments: Whether Getting Pickled Or Pickling, Vinegar Is The Star

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It sounds like the start of a joke: A woman walks into the store, and orders a shrub. Except the woman is me, and I’m not in a garden center, but a fairly upscale pizza place in Seattle, Washington. The shrub I have ordered is something that you’re probably beginning to see on menus, although it was a popular drink in Colonial times. Also known as a vinegar drink, these trendy thirst quenchers are made up of a sweetened vinegar base and fresh fruit. Adding alcohol is optional.

Shrubs are not the only place that vinegar is showing up these days. Cucumbers, green tomatoes, watermelon rind, green beans, and okra are all finding themselves in a pickle this time of year. It is a relatively simple means of preserving nature’s bounty, or to make use of the final green fruits clinging to vines as cold weather moves in.

But where would these new fashioned old-fashioned drinks or pickling be, without vinegar? It is vinegar that keeps pickled fruits and vegetables preserved, and it is vinegar that adds the zip and zing to recipes.

Vinegar is acetic acid, produced when naturally occurring bacteria combines with an alcoholic liquid (wine, beer, cider, fruit juice) and interacts with oxygen. It has existed as far back as 5,000 or 6,000 BC, according to numerous online sources, and most likely first occurred quite by accident. Less than perfect storage possibilities in ancient times meant that the popular ciders and wines were often exposed to oxygen, and eventually, the potables turned into vinegars.

Not only is acetic acid a preservative, but the ancients quickly found medicinal uses for vinegar, and many of those folk remedies continue to be popular. It is usually apple cider vinegar that is touted as a health food, specifically, organic, unpasteurized vinegar. This product contains the “mother,” a kind of nasty looking, cloudy glob.

Made up of cellulose and the bacteria that turns the liquid into vinegar, it is purported to be antifungal and an anti-inflammatory. One or two tablespoons of unpasteurized vinegar in a glass of water each day, tempered with a little honey, is said to offer relief for arthritis, and aid in digestion and weight issues. Although few studies are found that support claims of vinegar being a cure all, there may be some truth behind the claims.

While vinegar does not stop osteoporosis, acetic acid does aid in the absorption of minerals. Calcium found in dark leafy greens is more available to the body when the greens are splashed with vinegar.

Vinegar may not prevent diabetes, but it has been suggested that vinegar included in a meal can slow the absorption of sugar into the bloodstream, and can reduce insulin levels in the blood. Because elevated blood sugar and insulin levels have been linked to heart disease, it is fair to say, I think, that slowing or reducing these insults to the body is helpful.

Using vinegar adds flavor to foods, reducing the need for added salt and fats — and that can mean a healthier diet.

The best thing about vinegar is its flavor. While apple cider vinegar on its own is rather harsh, it mellows greatly when cut with a bit of honey or agave; balanced with salt, it has a mellow flavor.

What kitchen cupboard today does not contain a bottle of Balsamic vinegar? True Balsamic vinegar comes from the Modena or Reggio Emilia provinces in Italy. It is made from the concentrated juice of the white Trebbiano grapes, and is aged in wood. Authentic Balsamic vinegar carries the DOC designation on the label, meaning it has been aged between 12 and 25 years. This very dark vinegar sits gently on the tongue. It is often used for dipping a crusty bread, on its own, or married with a flavorful olive oil.

Balsamic vinaigrette has become as readily available as any other salad dressing. What surprises people, is thinking of vinegar as a condiment for fruits and desserts. Infused Balsamic vinegars (think ginger and honey, chocolate espresso, or cherry) brighten up a bowl of fresh cherries or a raw kale salad. Drizzle Balsamic over ice cream for a low calorie sauce that makes your taste buds sit up and pay attention.

White Balsamic vinegar is also made from the Trebbiano grapes, but is not cooked down in the slow manner that concentrates traditional Balsamic vinegar into the familiar dark brown liquid. The aging process is also far less, usually under three years. As might be expected, it has not quite the rich flavor of the classic Balsamic.

Red, white and sherry wine vinegars are staples in the kitchen, as well. Vinegars made from these wines are aged in wood, up to two years. Lower in acidity, they are all popular additions to sauces and salad dressings.

There are probably as many kinds of vinegars as there are fruits and grains in the world (and Kombucha is a whole ‘nother story) — but most likely it is distilled, or white vinegar, that puts produce in a pickle. The fermented product of distilled alcohol from malt barley or corn, white vinegar has the advantage of not adding a slight brown color to the finished pickle, as apple cider will. Both have an acidity of 5 percent, needed for preservative properties. Most wine vinegars and Balsamics are not acidic enough to be used in preserving foods.

I’m not big on standing over a boiling pot of water, so chances are you will not find rows of glistening glass jars full of homemade pickles in my pantry. I do love fresh pickles, though, and that’s why I am a fan of freezer pickles and what I call “quickles,” which must be kept in the refrigerator and eaten within a couple of weeks.

I’m keeping my eyes open for shrubs on a Newtown menu, because that blueberry shrub in Seattle? Memorable! In the meantime, you can find a rather elaborate method for making a longlasting shrub syrup at www.thekitchn.com, or a swifter version, at www.huffingtonpost.com, with “fruit shrub” in the search boxes.

Quickles

1 C honey

1 C white or cider vinegar

½ C water

2 tsp sea salt

2 -3 Tbs fresh dill, minced

2 tsp peppercorns

2 small cloves garlic, whole

½ small onion, halved, thinly sliced

1 tsp coriander seed

Approximately 6 medium cucumbers

Place all ingredients except cucumbers in a non-aluminum pan. Bring to a boil.

Meanwhile, slice cucumbers about 1/8 -inch thick, unpeeled if very fresh and thin-skinned

Add cucumbers to boiling liquid. There should be enough to fill the pan, but still be covered by a little liquid.

Reduce heat to simmer, cover pan, and cook for about 5 minutes.

Remove from heat. Cool. Ladle cukes into a clean glass jar and pour liquid over to fill.

Cover tightly, and refrigerate. Use within a few weeks.

Lazy homemade pickle lovers can relish the flavor of “quickles,” the fast food version of canning. White or cider vinegar helps preserve these in the refrigerator.
Made up mainly of fruit, sugar and vinegar, a “shrub” is an old-fashioned thirst quencher that is making a comeback. Served with or without alcohol, it is organic, unfiltered vinegar that is the secret to the perfect drinking vinegar.               
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