Bangkok Thai Restaurant Draws Devoted Pilgrims To Its Authentic Cuisine

Authentic, traditional Thai cuisine is the pride of Bangkok Thai Restaurant in Nutmeg Square on Newtown Road (Route 6) in Danbury. Opened in 1986, it was the first Thai restaurant in Connecticut; its quality has earned it three-star ratings from The New York Times, Hartford Courant, and recommendations from Zagat’s, as well as legions of fans from throughout the area and beyond.

Located in an unassuming storefront just a few doors down from Stop & Shop, the elegant restaurant interior features high-backed booths lining the side walls, but the frame of them is open, reflective of bamboo. Large Thai parasols are inverted over the tables in the center of the room, which can accommodate larger parties. Posters of Thailand decorate the walls, which are a soothing rose pink. Asian music plays softly in the background, and the waitstaff is attired in traditional Thai dress.

It is the food, however, that is the primary attraction, and the main chef, and co-owner is Taew Robinson, who was born and trained in Thailand; many of the dishes served are based on family recipes. Unlike many newer Thai restaurants, Bangkok does not serve other Asian cuisines, nor have its recipes been adapted for the American palate. “If you go to Thailand,” says co-owner Val Horsa, “you will eat the same food as you do here.”

The menu features some 60 Thai entrees, with their ingredients listed along side. Thai cuisine is spicy, and the “hot & spicy” dishes are marked with an asterisk. Food will be made extra spicy upon request.

Bangkok offers luncheon specials Tuesday through Friday from 11:30 to 2:30 for $6.50–$6.95. Each comes with soup, a spring roll, and rice; the soup is excluded in to-go orders. There are four soup choices — including tom gah kai, chicken in coconut milk, and the spicy tom yum goong, traditional Thai shrimp soup — and 13 entrée selections, featuring chicken, pork, or beef served in different ways. Lunch is not served on the weekend.

Dinner is served from 5 to 10 Tuesday through Friday, and 4 to 10 on Saturday and Sunday. Diners can choose from six appetizers, three soups (all $7.50), and seven salads before even considering an entrée.

Appetizers range from $4.50 for pak sot (vegetarian rolls with dipping sauce) to $8.50 for the Bangkok sampler, which includes selections from four of the appetizers — thin slices of marinated pork or chicken, Thai beef jerky, pak sot, and bite-sized spring rolls stuffed with ground pork, bamboo shoots, crystal noodles, bean sprouts, and Thai spices.

The Thai salads are all $9.95, with the exception of the peanut salad, $4.50, which is a tossed salad with Taew’s peanut dressing. Squid lovers will go for uym pla mouk; yum goon chiang features imported Thai sausage with tomato, onion, cucumber, lettuce and pepper with a Thai sauce.

There are four noodle dishes, $8.95 and $12.95, and four fried rice based, all $7.95.

Bangkok offers a variety of seafood dishes, many featuring shrimp, $13.95 to $19.95; market price for the three whole fish specialties. Ho mook talay offers a combination of lobster, shrimp, scallops, and squid spiced and steamed in a clay pot. Goong ob-mo-din is crystal noodles, shrimp, ginger, and tomatoes.

Pork, chicken, and beef are offered in a number of dishes, all $12.95, with various vegetable and sauce combinations. Some examples are moo pad prik king, pork tenderloin with green beans, Thai hot curry, and exotic spices; kai ka pao, chicken with fresh basil and Thai spices; and panang nhua, slices of round steak simmered in coconut milk, Thai curry, and spices.

To end the meal, dessert selections are homemade coconut ice cream, $2.50, rambutan, a Thai fruit, $2.50, or lychee, $2. The Thai specialty of mango and sticky rice, $4, is offered on a seasonal basis.

Beverage selections include soft drinks, beer, wine, coffee, and tea.

Bangkok Thai Restaurant, 72 Newtown Road, Danbury, is open Tuesday through Friday, 11:30 to 2:30 and 5 to 10 pm; Saturday and Sunday, dinner only, 4 to 10. Closed Monday. MasterCard, Visa, and American Express accepted. Takeout available. For more information, 791-0640 or www.bangkokrestaurant.com.