Nourishments — When Being In A Jam Is A Good Thing

By Nancy K. Crevier

When I was growing up, the advent of summer meant the beginning of jelly season for my aunt and grandma, a season that extended all the way through til the last autumn fruit was harvested. My grandma lived on 40 acres outside of town, a piece of property rich in blackberries, raspberries, choke cherries, and blueberries. In the garden, my grandparents tended rows of strawberries and a big patch of rhubarb, and the field was home to a crab apple tree or two that produced tart, tiny fruits late in the summer. If we timed our visits right, the sweet smell of strawberry-rhubarb jam simmering on the stove top greeted us. Every summer walk in the woods ended up with Gramma holding an apronful of berries, many of which ended up as tasty spreads.

On the edge of town, Aunt Helen and Uncle Ferd dedicated a great portion of their three-quarter acre to gardens. Much of it was floral, but a good portion yielded, among other things, fruit bushes and plum trees. Draped over the back fence that separated the garden from the alley was a huge vine of concord grapes. The birds and my uncle carried on a yearly battle as to who would harvest the most grapes, but generally, he was able to bring in a fairly large tub of juicy, purple fruit for my aunt to turn into jugs of juice and jars of jelly.

I seem to have not inherited the jelly gene. Only once have I turned a crate of ripe mangoes into jars of spicy chutney, and any berries I pick disappear long before they end up in a saucepan on the stove.

On the other hand, when my sister visits, she never fails to bring with her sparkling jars of clear jellies and smooth, rich fruit butters. She and her husband live in a rural section of northern Minnesota where wild fruits are abundant. This year, the black currants, high bush cranberries, choke cherries, and wild strawberries that they picked have been reincarnated as jams, jellies, and preserves. Because they are picked and prepared at the peak of their freshness, these homemade treats are incomparable in flavor. It may also be the tablespoon of love that she adds to each jar that makes them out of this world.

As with most homemade goods, jelly-making is an art that is perfected with practice. The steps are not difficult, though, and it is mainly the commitment to time and a lack of willingness to occasionally experience failure that prevents most of us today from creating our own designer jellies. Or jams. Or conserves. Or… what is the difference, anyway?

According to the National Center for Home Preservation, jellies consist of thickened fruit juice and sugar. The perfect jelly is crystal clear and free of any fruit pulp or fiber. Jam is made from crushed fruit and sugar. Conserves are a mix of fruits with additions like citrus fruits, nuts, and dried fruits, while preserves are small, whole fruits or chunks of fruit in a clear, jellied syrup.

Soft fruit jellies with fruit or citrus peel suspended in them are called marmalades, and fruit butters are fruit pulp cooked with sugar until spreadable.

The art of jelly and jam making lies in discovering the correct combination of fruit, pectin, acid, and sugar. While naturally occurring, pectin varies from one fruit variety to another, and is less developed in fully ripened fruit. Pectin is key, however, to getting fruit to gel properly, so many home jelly makers prefer to add commercial pectin and will often use a portion of underripe fruit in the recipe, as well.

Lemon juice or other citrus juice can be added to adjust the acidity of fruits and ensure a firm, clear product.

Low or no-sugar fruit jellies require a great deal of experimentation so as not to end up with jars of syrup. Honey can replace part of the sugar called for in a jelly, but do not expect as firm a final jelly as when all sugar is used.

Surprisingly, the size of the jar will also affect the end product. Most recipes indicate a specific jar size, and do not recommend increasing the size of the batch cooked, in order to have a satisfactory result.

Apples and pears are abundant now, and marry well with spices that conjure up the spirit of autumn: cinnamon, cloves, and nutmeg. I am counting on my sister to keep my jelly cupboard full, but if you want to try your hand at making your own fruit concoction, specific directions can be found at uga.edu/nchfp/how/can/07/prep_jam_jelly.html. It’s worth a try to see how sweet it is.

Eliza’s Mom’s Tomato Jam

A recipe easy enough for the novice!

Enough ripe red tomatoes to nearly fill a 4 qt non-aluminum pot

1 C sugar

1-2 tsp cinnamon

3 whole cloves

Wash, blanch, peel and seed the tomatoes. Chop coarsely.

Place in pot with sugar and cook until thickened, about 2 hours, stirring often.

Stir in spices.

If the jam does not seem thick enough, add a little more sugar and continue cooking.

Pour into a small, sterile jar and cool. Refrigerate.

Delicious on toast!

Aunt Mary’s Apple Butter

10 pints apples, peeled and sliced

1 qt of water

2 C raw sugar

¾ C brown sugar

1 Tbs cinnamon

1 tsp ground cloves

1 tsp allspice

Combine apples and water in large kettle and bring to a boil. Cover and simmer until apples are soft. Pass through a food mill.  Combine the strained applesauce with remaining ingredients in a clean kettle and bring to a boil until sugar is dissolved. Cook gently, uncovered, until mixture becomes quite thick- at least 2 ½  hours.  Stir often.  Pour into hot sterilized jars and seal. Makes about 2 quarts.

Delicious with cream cheese on crackers or spread on a whole grain bagel.