Date: Fri 25-Oct-1996

Publication: Bee

Author: DONNAM

Illustration: C

Location: A12

Quick Words:

Gardener-fall-spring-roots

Full Text:

(fall planting & pruning notes for Suburban Gardener, 10/25/96)

Suburban Gardener-

Don't Put Those Tools Away Yet!

By Anthony C. Bleach

It is difficult to set down a rigid planting schedule for the rest of the

season as any activity is so dependent on the weather. The criterion will be

how well a plant can form a secure root system before cold weather stops

growth.

Since evergreens are never dormant, and very susceptible to winter sunburn,

they must have a good root system. These include needled evergreens,

rhododendrons, hollies and andromedas.

Research has shown landscape plants need four weeks from the time of planting

to the onset of cold weather for sturdy root growth. Test plants that were set

out late in the season with less chance of root regeneration were susceptible

to winter injury and sometimes died in the cradle.

Soil scientists who have studied root systems have found that even though air

temperatures may approach freezing, root growth continues in the top six

inches of soil. As long as soil temperatures remains about 40 to 45 degrees,

roots will regenerate as long as the soil remains moist.

Some bulbs must be planted in the fall. Lily bulbs are set out late because

they are not dug for shipment until late October and early November. Lilies

are planted as soon as they are received because they are never dormant. The

same is true of perennials like peonies and hostas. Hardy spring bulbs -

daffodils, hyacinths and tulips - as well as the smaller bulbs - crocus,

eranthis, anenomes, scillas - mature during the summer and are shipped from

growers' fields for fall planting.

Since spring-flowering bulbs are rootless, they must be in the soil long

enough to grow strong roots before soil freezes. Spring-flowering bulbs can be

planted until mid-October but as long as the ground is open and can be dug,

tulips can be planted up to Election Day and beyond.

As days grow shorter and cooler, changes also take place in the plants

themselves: They begin to become dormant. Instead of absorbing nutrients from

soil to support new leaves and form flowers, plant cells become harder. Water

content is reduced and cell walls become woody. Leaves go through a final

physiological change and drop off. Plants in this transition absorb the shock

of transplanting readily and for this reason landscape operations can continue

well into November.

There are a few exceptions to this fall planting tradition. Some things are

better moved in the spring. All fruits (both tree and berry) and grape vines

establish better. Trees with thin bark also transplant better in March,

especially dogwood, Japanese maple, birch, beech, flowering fruit trees such

as cherry and peach, and golden rain tree. Roses are planted in the spring

because growers dig plants late in the season to grade and pot or wrap them

for cold storage. Wait until spring to plant asters, chrysanthemums, Shasta

daisies, coral bells, pinks, bellflowers and Veronicas.

Prepare garden beds for flowers and vegetables now. Dig deeply and enrich with

composts, manures and lime to lie fallow. Finally apply fertilizer to

evergreens, especially rhododendrons and azaleas, after leaves have fallen

from shade trees. Nutrients will work their way down to root zones and be

absorbed to support spring growth.

Spring fertilizer applications depend on the weather, and often nutrients do

not have time to work down to roots when they are needed.

This piece is based on a classic article written by Joan Lee Faust in The New

York Times in September 1983.

(Anthony C. Bleach coordinates the horticulture degree program at Naugatuck

Valley Community-Technical College in Waterbury.)