The pink stucco building with white and green trim is surrounded by greenery and an abundance of flowers, including several hanging baskets on the full-width porch, in the warmer weather. A stone staircase opens onto the porch; there is also a ground level entry on the side.

The elegant dining room with crisp white linens, fine china, and fresh flowers on every table seats about 60. When waiting for a table, customers can sit at a small, full bar in the rear of the restaurant, or in the nicer weather, around one of several tables on the porch. Meals are not served outside, however.

The restaurant is open for dinner Wednesday through Saturday from 5:30 to 9:30, Sunday brunch from 11:30 to 2, and Sunday dinner from 5 to 8. It is closed Monday and Tuesday.

On Wednesday, Thursday, Friday, and Sunday, diners can choose from the à la carte or prix fixe menu; Saturday dining is prix fixe only.

Mr Thiel handwrites the menus, which change weekly. About half the entrees diners choose are seafood based, but he notes he serves a lot of venison in the summer, and some diners come in for the veal tenderloin or sweetbreads.

In general, the à la carte menu features a choice of at least ten appetizers, three soups ($5 each), about a dozen entrees, which include a salad, and up to ten desserts. Appetizers on a recent menu ranged from asparagus vinaigrette ($6.50) to escalope de foie gras de canard (duck foie gras sautéed with rhubarb and fig compote, $15). Other offerings included mussels in white wine, garlic, and shallots, $11, smoked salmon, $10, and whole fresh artichokes with two sauces, $7.

Among the entrees ($19–$32) were frog legs sautéed with garlic and parsley, $19; rack of lamb with curried onion marmalade, $30; tenderloin of veal medallions, $29; and roasted duckling, $26. Dessert selections range $7.50–$11 and always include three soufflés.

The $52 prix fixe menu offered a first course choice of nine appetizers, such as shrimp and Belgian endive salad, quail stuffed with wild rice and prosciutto, and escargots on mushroom ragout, and three soups — lobster with fennel and cream, mushroom consommé, and puree of escarole.

Among the entrees were pan roasted Chilean sea bass on eggplant and tomatoes with capers, wild salmon filet with herbs and mushrooms, rack of lamb, and duckling roasted with peaches and pink peppercorns. Among the dessert selections were assorted cheeses, lemon tart, and chocolate tort with cherries and marzipan. For an additional $4, diners can choose from the three soufflés.

The Sunday brunch is also a three-course meal, prix fix at $25. Recently offered was a first course choice of six appetizers, such as escargots or game pâté, and two soups, onion and cream of escarole. The nine entrees included a crabmeat omelet, petite filet mignon, lamb chops, and sweetbreads and the desserts included chocolate mousse, poached pear, and fresh berries.

Ondine has a fine wine selection of some 250 labels, predominately French and Californian and 15 of which are available by the glass, to complement its food.

Ondine, 69 Pembroke Road (Route 37) in Danbury; 746-4900. Zagat rated. Open Wednesday–Saturday, 5:30 to 9:30; Sunday brunch, 11:30 to 2, and dinner, 5 to 8.  All major credit cards accepted.

 

Saint-Jacques ‘Oriental’

(Scallops with Seaweed Salad and Lemongrass emulsion)

½  cup finely cut seaweed

2 tbsp sesame seed oil

pinch sesame seeds

½ tsp diced red pepper

dash soy sauce

pinch sugar

dash vinegar

salt & pepper

Mix all ingredients other than seaweed and dried pepper, add seaweed and peppers to mixture, set aside.

1 stalk lemongrass, cut in ½-inch pieces

1 cup water

1 tbsp butter

1 dark soy sauce

Steep lemongrass in water till reduced to ¼ cup. Strain

4 large sea scallops appox 6 oz

salt and pepper

clarified butter

Season scallops with salt and pepper, sear in butter till translucent. Place seaweed salad on plates, scallops on top. Reheat lemongrass tea, add dash of soy sauce. Swirl in cold butter, pour around scallops. Sprinkle with finely chopped lemongrass and serve.