Date: Fri 06-Sep-1996

Publication: Bee

Author: DONNAM

Illustration: C

Location: A11

Quick Words:

Cramer-Siberia-travel-journal

Full Text:

(travel story written by reader Alvah R. Cramer, in Siberia, 9/6/96)

Traveler's Notebook-

From The Altai, The Pearl Of Siberia

By Alvah R. Cramer

It's Thursday August 8, 1996. I'm feeling quite melancholy, not because I'm in

Siberia, Russia, but because I must travel tomorrow from this Altai Province

and the majestic Altai Mountains which range through four major countries:

Russia, Kazakhstan, Mongolia and China.

Before me is inspiring Mt. Belukha, twin peaked east and west, the east peak

being the highest at 14,780 feet above sea level and resembling the Matterhorn

of Switzerland.

It is said Belukha is the keeper of great spirits for the people of the Altai

and as such has been placed equidistant from the Arctic, Atlantic, Pacific and

Indian Oceans, giving it power north, east, south and west. It rises

snow-capped year round and the Mensu glacier, the largest of many in this

region, is one source of the waters of the Katun river and eventually the Ob,

one of the longest rivers in the world. On the other side, the south side of

Belukha, the borders of China and Kazakhstan meet the mountain slopes.

I realize I'm far from my home in Connecticut, having flown first to Moscow,

then going 2,000 miles further east on the Tr ans Siberian Railroad, then

south four hours by bus and still further south, flying two more hours by

helicopter. I am among friends, Russian friends, some of whom I first met in

1990, and more recent American friends, all Appalachian Mountain Club Members

who, like me, appreciate the beauty and serenity of lakes, mountains, rivers,

valleys and flowers. I feel at peace here and thus being halfway around the

planet is of no consequence.

Near our base camp, from which I have day-hiked for seven of the last eight

days, is picturesque Lake Akkem at 6,600 feet above sea level. I have washed

my knife, fork, spoon, plate and cup in this lake every morning and evening

since arriving here.

The water is chalk white, void of fish and just above freezing temperature.

Surface ice is now forming each night, melting later in the day when the sun

rises above the high mountain ridge on the lake's east side. Snow will soon

come to this valley, in early September.

Four of our day hikes required crossing the waters of the lake in a rubber

pontoon boat. Two back-and-forth crossings were in the very swift flowing

headwaters where the boat was tethered to a steel cable that stretched from

one bank to the other. A carabiner attached to the cable functioned as a

pulley.

Two more back-and-forth crossings were in still water but the craft moved

swiftly as it was hauled by Russian mountain guides who alternated one after

the other as they ran away from the shore tugging on the haul line.

To the southeast I can see the opening between two mountain peaks which

permits access to the Valley of the Lake of the Spirits. The Lake of the

Spirits is azure in color and cannot be seen from the floor of the single

valley.

To discover the lake one must climb one of the valley's high ridges and look

down upon it, or hire a mountain guide who knows that a climb of 900 feet to

the right halfway up the valley would place you on the lake's shore. There is

no visible water source, but one surmises that the waterfall which disappears

high above the lake nourishes the spirits and then the lake.

Perhaps this is "Shambala." Shambala is an Altai word which means there is a

place undiscovered by man that will become the center of a new civilization

once mankind, with its current unbridled passion for destruction, wipes itself

out.

To the southwest a steep slope rises from the lake's shore 400 or more feet,

then forms a plateau. Mt. Bronya rises 10,690 feet on the south side of the

plateau, which is approximately one half mile wide, and a steep ridge angles

skyward on the north. This opening permits access to the valley of the seven

multi-colored lakes.

The valley ceases to be in less than two miles as a result of face walls

rising vertically to over 10,000 feet, blocking further passage. The tops are

snow covered. The seven lakes, small in size, some crystal clear, others green

and bluish, are positioned as if an enormous giant used the lakes for stepping

stones to climb the valley.

I was also inspired in this valley by the numerous streams, mere yards apart,

in which water cascaded down the center of the valley. The water source is

snow melt. Flowers of many varieties were in full bloom: yellow poppies, large

and small gensens, blossoms of deep blue forming flower blankets between rocky

spires.

Behind me to the northeast is the beginning of the Yarlu Valley. Quite

different from the other two, this valley commences from the shore of the

lake. There is a tree line with vast open meadows high above. The five-needled

pine found here lives for hundreds of years. The oldest on record has lived

for 800 years.

Horses belonging to Altai Horsemen range here during the summer. I did see

thirty two.

The hard to find Austrian Edelweiss grows here in abundance along the valley's

main stream bed. In one area there was at least a full acre of Edelweiss.

It is hard to believe it has been two weeks since this International

Appalachian Mountain club trip started. Our leaders, Lou Sgarzi and Janet

Swanson, in their calm demeanor, have attended to each one of us with personal

care and concern. Their thorough pre-trip and trip organization is most

welcome and helpful. It has been indeed a pleasure to be with them.

As a senior citizen I can no longer climb as fast as I used to. Can't keep up

with the youngsters. Downhill and level travel poses no problem. Lou noticed

this and convinced me to "poli-poli." This is a Swahili term meaning slow . It

worked and my climbing, although slow, has been steady and enjoyable. Like a

good coach Lou solved my problem.

For Lou and Janet, this is their third mountain adventure to Russia. The

previous two have been to the Caucasus and Tien Shan Mountain Ranges. The

Russian leader for all three has been Yuri Razumov.

I was fortunate to have first met Yuri and his lovely wife, Olga, in 1990 on

an AMC Russian/American exchange trip. Yuri was then a member of the Russian

National Climbing Team (CCCP) and worked for the government developing and

manufacturing ice climbing equipment. Much of his equipment is still used. He

now works for a private enterprise, CETNEVA. CET stands for "The Center for

Extreme Tours," and NEVA is the name of the river that flows through St.

Petersburg.

Yuri and seven other professional mountaineer climbers conduct group tours

which encompass mountaineering, mountain-climbing and trekking, rafting and

canoeing. They take full responsibility for the group upon arrival and make

all the arrangements. So far everything scheduled has taken place. No delays

or changes, which is quite unusual in Russia. Yuri has excellent

organizational skills and get things done.

A week after we leave tomorrow, this base camp will the operational center for

mountain rescue personnel. Fifty of Russia's top ice climbers will soon arrive

and stay on the glacier below Belukha to engage in climbing competition. This

is the first time the Altai Range has been used for this national annual

contest.

So far this afternoon I have counted five pack horses that have arrived and

are grazing along the shores of lake Akkem. Six to seven more are scheduled to

arrive later this evening. Horses are at a premium because the haying season

has started and they are needed for this important work.

The horses will carry our duffle bags, food and tents for the three-day trek

required to reach the village of Tyungur. Busses will meet us at Tyungur to

transport us 500 miles to Barnaul for a flight to St. Petersburg and four days

of sightseeing.

Tomorrow will be a long, hard day. It will require a five-hour climb to

Kara-Tyrek pass which is at 10,000 feet in altitude and another five hours

down to get to the first camp site. With the use of "poli-poli" and

encouragement from my wife Cora ("Coke"), I'm confident I will make the pass.

It will be most difficult to depart from this very special place on earth

which has been visited by very few Americans. I shall take with me the fondest

of memories. Some say this place is the pearl of Siberia. Lou says, "It's the

pearl of all of Asia." I most certainly agree.

Writer's note: All made the climb and the three-day trek without any major

incident. One horse fell but managed to continue although somewhat injured.

The cargo on this horse was damaged.

(Al Cramer was principal of Newtown High from 1965 through 1984. He retired as

assistant executive director of the Connecticut Interscholastic Athletic

Conference in 1994. He and his wife live on Partridge Lane in Newtown.)