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Date: Fri 23-Oct-1998

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Date: Fri 23-Oct-1998

Publication: Bee

Author: JUDYC

Quick Words:

Chianti-Merlot-tannins-Small

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WINE WISDOM: A New Season, A New Wine: Red

By Steve Small

Now that Labor Day is just a fond memory of the last days of summer, it is

time to turn my attention to red wines. As the nights cool, the grill is shut

down and the oven receives the bulk of the dinner cooking chores. Dishes like

beef stew and roasts naturally lend themselves to a nice bottle of red wine. A

handful of red wines are particularly popular today and I will attempt to

provide you with a brief overview of those wines.

Chianti should not be thought of as that cheap red wine that comes in straw

bottles. With the 1997 vintage just starting to appear on store shelves, there

are quite a few delicious Chiantis available in prices starting at around $8 a

bottle and going up from there. You can purchase Chianti (good), Chianti

Classico (better), or Chianti Classico Riserva (best).

Some of the most popular names are Ruffino and Antinori, but there are also

many, many more excellent Chiantis available from less well-known producers.

There are also some tasty wines labeled Sangiovese, which is the primary red

grape used to make Chianti.

Merlot seems to be the red wine of the moment. There are Merlots currently

available from just about every wine-making region in the world. The basic

Merlot flavor profile is a soft, medium-bodied red that while still dry has

very nice fruit flavors. Because there are so many Merlots now available, they

actually cover a very broad flavor spectrum. I have found Columbia Crest,

Forest Glen, Blackstone, and Beringer Founders Estate to be great examples of

what Merlot should be.

Before Merlot's explosive growth in popularity, Cabernet was the most popular

red wine. As a general rule, cabernet is usually a touch drier than Merlot and

can be a bit more tannic. Tannins are the tingle you get in the sides of your

mouth when drinking some red wines.

The best Cabernets can age for decades but most that sell for under $15 a

bottle are ready to drink right away. In the $20-a-bottle price range, Robert

Mondavi and Beringer are benchmark California Cabernets. For good values, do

not be afraid to try some Cabernets from Chile.

I have just skimmed the surface of the wonderful world of red wines. After you

have sampled the tasty Chiantis, Merlots, and Cabernets of the world, I can

then recommend Shiraz, Zinfandel, Pinot Noir, Malbec, Barbera... Well, I have

run out of space but obviously not out of wine!

(Steve Small is the proprietor of Steve's Liquor Store, at 71 Main Street

South/Route 25 in Newtown.)

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