The Bountiful Hive—

Cozy, Country Charm With Innovative Offerings

By Meg Maher-Soto

Cozy, charming and romantic dining can be found in the heart of historic Newtown at The Inn at Newtown, with an added grace: the inn is child-friendly!

We hadn’t frequented The Inn at Newtown recently, but we were eager to sample the cuisine of Executive Chef Paul Olson. So with toddler Charles in tow (yes, we were daring), we visited on a recent weekday evening.

We arrived around eight, and the soft jazz piped into the entry and foyer put us pleasantly in the mood for a relaxing dining experience. The lovely front room where the host podium stands feels like a room in the home of a friend. Warm hues, soft lighting and a piano fill the room with an understated grandeur that exudes a warm welcome to guests.

When the hostess approached us with menus in hand, she asked if we would like to sit in the taproom or main dining room. We wished to sit in the main dining room, having eaten in the taproom on our previous visit.

The lighting was just perfect, just dim enough to enhance the room, and I like the way the light danced off a pretty pine hutch adorned with a rooster prop and some lovely paintings toward the back of the room.

Our waiter was friendly and knowledgeable, and he gave special attention to our son. The inn offers a children’s menu with six or so items.

We meandered through an intricate yet interesting menu, and when we ordered a glass of Merlot, we were offered us a choice of an Australian or a California Merlot ($4.50 a glass). Again, it was nice to have a choice.

Our breadbasket arrived soon after and we were happy to find delicious warm bread that seemed homemade. Kudos to the kitchen. A fine bead basket usually sets the stage for a well-prepared meal.

We ordered the Warm Maytag Blue Cheese and Leek Tart ($7.95), a four-inch unadorned tart sitting in a bit of butter sauce with leeks. The pastry was buttery and tender.

Rock Shrimp Quesadilla with Black Beans, Jalapeño Jack Cheese & Avocado Salsa ($7.95) offered a subtle nicety with its  homemade flour tortilla, fresh and crisp, although a true quesadilla has a tortilla placed on top; this one was open-faced. All ingredients paired deliciously and the avocado salsa was fresh and sweet.

Soups are also available, as is a salad with any entrée. We  ordered the balsamic vinaigrette, which was an overly strong dressing.

The chicken fingers we ordered for Charles were a far cry from the average restaurant’s “kid fare.” The fingers were moist, tender, and had been fried in a flavorful batter. They came with tasty French fries and a small ramekin of ketchup. Charles was happy to dip his fries in the little ramekin.

When our entrees arrived, my husband commented on the lovely presentation of his Pan Seared Coriander Scented Yellowfin Tuna with Thai Black Rice, Maple-Soy Glaze & Tomato-Ginger Vinaigrette ($19.95). The sushi-grade tuna was cut on the bias into two pieces, nicely seared and medium rare, atop a bed of Thai black rice (sometimes called “forbidden” rice).

On its own, the tuna was divine. The disappointment was the rice. It  had an unpleasant hardness to the bite and  was a bit undercooked, but still flavorful. Also, the sauce would have fared better with less soy, which has a tendency to overseason fish if not used lightly.

My Pan Seared Lump Crabcakes with Jicama Coleslaw and Chipotle Cream ($19.95) were two nice sized cakes studded with corn, red and green bell pepper and smoked ham. Although tasty, the smoked ham overpowered the delicate flavor of the crabmeat, so the flavors were competing.

Entrees covered the gamut from lobster, poached halibut, grilled pork chop, filet mignon, braised lamb shank and chicken. There are usually two or three specials.

We decided not to have dessert, although I would have happily ordered any one of them. They all sounded mouthwatering.There were choices of white chocolate cake with macadamia nut crust and warm peanut butter chocolate cake with Heath Bar ice cream among the regular dessert menu offerings, and two equally tempting specials.

Overall, the experience was delightful. The service, ambiance and accommodating waitstaff made for an evening that was the mark of innovative and creative culinary workmanship.

Dinner for two with a glass of wine, before tax and tip, was $64. Appetizers range from $6.95 to $9.95. Entrees range from $15.95 to $25.95.

The Inn at Newtown is open for lunch Tuesday through Saturday, 11:30 am to 5 pm. Dinner is served nightly from 5 until 10 pm and until 9 pm on Monday. An a la carte Sunday brunch is served from 11 am until 2 pm. The phone number is 270-1876. The Inn will be open on Memorial Day.

Restaurant Notes

You’ll be happy to know that Leo’s Breakfast & Lunch at 271 South Main Street (Route 25) will be serving brunch on Memorial Day.

Food Notes

Want to add a terrific addition to your repertoire of foods for Memorial Day grilling? Try summer sweet corn on the grill.

Just remove the husks off your corn on the cob and place them on a hot grill. Grill until lightly charred on both sides. A charcoal grill is preferred if you want to truly discover the natural sweetness of naked corn.

(Meg Maher-Soto has worked in the culinary arts as a gourmet market buyer and consultant, as a dining and special functions manager at a country club, as a retail operations manager in the corporate world, and currently operates a home-based catering business with her husband. Naturally, she is married to a chef.)