Fife ’n Drum Restaurant And Inn Offers Dining Excellence In The Litchfield Hills

A scenic ride up Route 7 into the hills of Litchfield County lands one at the doorstep of the Fife ’n Drum Restaurant and Inn. Under the management of Audrey and Dolph Traymon since 1973, daughter Elissa Potts serves as general manager and hostess. One of the oldest restaurants in the area consistently owned by the same family, it will celebrate 40 years of business in January 2013, with events and specials leading up to the anniversary.

Entering the Fife ’n Drum, two larger dining rooms break off to the left of the small foyer, with a third private dining room to the right. Softly lit by stained glass panels overhead, a sleek mahogany bar is flanked by the dining areas, and offers comfortable upholstered bar chairs. The smaller dining room to the right of the foyer pays homage to one of Fife ’n Drum’s early customers, the late artist Eric Sloane. Soft golden walls are hung with numbered prints by the local painter. Ivory linens drape the tables, set with cloth napkins and pewter chargers imprinted with the Fife ’n Drum logo.

To accommodate a growing clientele, and to create a more casual atmosphere, Fife ’n Drum added on the dining room to the immediate left of the entrance in 1978. A second addition built in 2003 expanded the restaurant further. The two newer dining rooms are set with the same linens and pewter place settings as the original dining room. A fireplace in each room, dark, barn wood paneling, and low lighting gives a sophisticated yet casual country feel to the restaurant. Tables down the length of one wall in the front dining room are bordered by a room-length booth on one side, and on the opposite sides by solid, early American-style wooden armchairs. Rich red leather-cushioned booths are interspersed with tables on the opposite side of the room. Watercolors of people and places in Kent, by yet another regional artist, the late David Armstrong, are a permanent exhibit in this room.

A vaulted ceiling and high windows give natural light and spaciousness to the rear dining area, a popular space for parties of up to 50 guests.

Diners in any of the rooms enjoy a special treat that will not be found anywhere else, each evening, when Mr Traymon, a former pianist for the Tommy Dorsey Orchestra, sits down to play standard tunes and jazz on one of two Steinway baby grand pianos in the Fife ’n Drum.

The other draw to the Fife ’n Drum, said Ms Potts, is the classic tableside service not found in any other area restaurant. One of the most popular items on the dinner menu is the roast half duck flambé, $28, carved tableside and served with a sauce du jour, featuring seasonal ingredients. Diners seeking a lighter meal, but one with panache, will like the Caesar salad tossed tableside by waiters dressed in classic black and white attire.

Included on the dinner menu is a roasted natural chicken, $20, served with a wild mushroom risotto and shallot gravy. Fennel crusted lamb rib chops are brightened by minted blood orange mustard sauce, $28. The daily dinner menu lists four specials, including one fish and another vegetarian.

Diners are hard pressed to choose between four salads to kick off the meal, including the red salad, a mélange of beets, radicchio, pickled red onions, strawberries, almonds, and goat cheese in a raspberry vinaigrette.

Appetizers also receive special attention. The Hawaiian tortilla wrap is stuffed with smoked salmon, avocado, mango, seaweed salad, and wasabi cream cheese. The beer and molasses braised BBQ pork spare ribs appetizer has received the thumbs up from numerous diners. A soup du jour and French onion soup gratinée are on the menu every day. Soups and appetizers range from $6 to $13.

The full menu is available at the bar, as well, but “Bar Bites” are most popular with the casual diners that congregate at the well. Crispy sticky chicken, $11, served with spicy Thai buffalo sauce; prosciutto, fresh mozzarella, and roasted tomato pizza on a hand-thrown crust, $13; or beef chili nachos, $11, are among the best sellers for quick bites with a brew.

Lunchtime customers enjoy the 8-ounce cheddar burger, roast beef on marble rye, or the ham and Brie panini, each $10, or any of the other creative sandwiches on the menu. Eggs Benedict is found on the lunch menu, as well, for those who want to roll breakfast and lunch together.

The goal of Fife ’n Drum, said Ms Potts, is to provide classic meals, but to keep them updated. Chefs Leon Bouteiller and Chris Lanza work with Ms Potts to create seasonal menus, utilizing fresh, local ingredients whenever possible, in exciting new ways that intrigue diners and staff alike.

Fife ’n Drum Restaurant and Inn is also known for its Sunday brunch, served 11:30 to 3 pm, featuring menu favorites and specials to tempt the palate.

During the August 2–5 Summer Sale Days, the restaurant will offer $2 pulled pork sliders, $3 margaritas and draught beer during lunch hours.

Along with the expertly executed menu, said Ms Potts, what brings people back to the restaurant is the extraordinary wine list. For the 15th year, the restaurant has been awarded the 2012 Wine Spectator magazine Best Of Award of Excellence. Zagat recently awarded Fife ’n Drum with Very Good to Excellent for Service, for 2012/13. The “wine by the glass” program introduces customers to quality wines, at by the glass pricing.

A low turnover in staff means that regular customers are greeted by name, and waitstaff is aware of favorite seating arrangements and other details that add up to a great dining experience. With 7,300 wines in the inventory, it is not unusual for oenophiles to request that the list be e-mailed, prior to dinner. Staff is educated to assist customers in wine selection.

Fife ’n Drum Restaurant and Inn is always looking forward, said Ms Potts. One thing that does not change, though, is a dedication to dining excellence.

Fife ’n Drum Restaurant and Inn is closed on Tuesday. Lunch is served Monday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday, and Saturday from 11:30 to 3 pm. Dinner is served Monday, Wednesday, and Thursday from 5:30 to 9:30 pm, and on Friday and Saturday from 5:30 to 10 pm. Sunday brunch is served from 11:30 am to 3 pm, and Sunday dinner from 3 pm to 8:30 pm. The bar is open from 11:30 am to closing each day, except Tuesday. All of the menus are available for takeout by calling ahead to 860-927-3509. The wine cellar list and information about private parties, as well as updates on the anniversary celebrations can be found at www.fifendrum.com.