Date: Fri 18-Aug-1995

Publication: Bee

Author: SHANNO

Illustration: C

Location: A-10

Quick Words:

Chardonnay-White-Wine-Small

Full Text:

STD HEAD: WINE WISDOM

No Excuses For A Chardonnay Rut!

As I sit and write today's column, the record-setting heatwave has just

passed. We opened a bottle of 1986 BV Private Reserve to enjoy with our steak

and it was delicious. It was also the first glass of red wine I had enjoyed in

weeks. When it is just too hot to move, white wines are my choice. Light, dry

white wines, to be more specific.

The classic light, dry white wine is Sauvignon Blanc, which is also called

Fume Blanc, thanks to the inventiveness of Robert Mondavi. Sauvignon Blanc

provides some of the best white wine values in today's marketplace. For around

$5 a bottle, the DeMartino Sauvignon Blanc from Chile is surprisingly tasty.

Mondavi Woodbridge Sauvignon Blanc is widely available and is also an

excellent value. There are even more tasty Sauvignon Blancs in the $6-$10

range. Wines I have recently enjoyed include California Sauvignon Blancs from

Kunde, Geyser Peak, Concannon and South Africa's Boschendal.

If you prefer something a little out of the ordinary, you still have lots of

options for under $10. White wine is not just Chardonnay or Sauvignon Blanc

anymore. From France, Georges DuBoeuf's Viognier is just delicious. It is

delicate, dry and good for sipping by the pool.

In Spain, they produce wine from a grape called Albarino. These wines are dry,

with plenty of flavor complexity. And let's not forget Italy and the

ubiquitous Pinot Grigio. There is quite a bit of everyday white wine currently

being sold under the name of Pinot Grigio. The good ones, however, have a

distinctive flavor and good body. I have recently enjoyed Pinot Gringos from

Mezzacorona and Castelcosa.

Finally, from Australia, the grape Semillon is grown quite extensively. It is

most often blended with Chardonnay and labeled "Sem-Chard." These Sem-Chard

blends can often be tasty and good values in the 1.5-liter size.

Moving back to California, I have found Mirassou's White Burgundy to be a

consistently good wine year after year. It is made from Pinot Blanc and

reminds me of a good Chardonnay.

Another oddity is Chappellet's Old Vine Cuvee. This wine is made from Chenin

Blanc, usually a fruity wine. The Old Vine Cuvee is dry and flavorful. I would

never have guessed, on first tasting, that it was Chenin Blanc.

There is no excuse for those of you out there stuck in a Chardonnay rut. It is

white wine season and there are plenty of new and different wines for you to

enjoy.

(Steve Small is the proprietor of Steve's Wines & Liquors on Route 25 in

Ricky's Shopping Center in Newtown.)