Date: Fri 11-Apr-1997

Author: DONNAM

Illustration: C

Location: A12

Quick Words:

Gardener-pruning-roses

Full Text:

(pruning roses column for Suburban Gardener, 4/11/97)

Suburban Gardener-

Pruning Continues With The Rose

"It is often far more difficult to decide whether or not to prune than how to

prune. When in doubt, the best policy to adopt for the vast majority of

old-fashioned and shrub roses is, do nothing."

-Peter Beales

By Anthony C. Bleach

Because we had a winter with little snow cover, there often is widespread

winterkill. So if rose pruning is delayed until buds start to break, gardeners

can easily see which rosebushes are complete losses or where canes should be

cut back to encourage better growth.

For small rose pruning jobs, the only tools necessary are sharp pruning shears

and gloves. If the rose collection is large, a small saw with pointed blades

and loppers (pruning shears with extended handles) will help. Loppers are used

to reach in and cut out large dead canes.

Average pruning height for floribundas and hybrid teas is between 12 and 18

inches, but taller growing hybrid teas and most grandifloras may be left at

two feet. Make pruning cuts at a 45-degree angle above a strong bud that is

growing on the outside of the cane. Aim to cut upward on the inside to

encourage growth outward.

The only way to tell whether or not a rose cane has suffered damaging

frostbite is to cut it off a quarter of an inch above a bud. Examine the

surface of the cut and look for a white center. If it is there, that is live

wood and the dead wood has been removed.

In addition to removing dead wood, spring pruning also offers an opportunity

to clean out the rosebush. Small twiggy stems and canes should be removed. A

scraggly cane whose diameter is less than a quarter of an inch at the base

does not have the capacity to carry sufficient food and water to produce well.

It also clutters up the interior of the bush and provides a home for insects

and disease.

If two canes cross and rub against one another, one of them should be removed.

If they are not removed, wounds caused by abrasions can be invitations to

trouble.

Also look for evidence of stem borers, which make holes in the center of the

cane. Two different insects may cause this damage: the carpenter bee and the

curled rose sawfly. The insects feed on the pith of the stems, drilling or

boring their way down to the base. Destruction of pith causes stems to wilt

and die.

If borere are discovered, canes should be cut off at a point below where

insects embedded themselves. Coat the cut with cane sealer, tree wound

dressing, or orange shellac to close the wound. This prevents re-entry of

borers. Carpenter bees and the curled sawfly can be further controlled by

regular use of an all-purpose rose dust or spray.

Climbing roses with large flowers more than two inches across are borne on

wood that is two or more years old. These canes are larger and sturdier than

those of ramblers. Some like Dr W. Van Fleet and Paul's Scarlet flower once in

June, but ever blooming climbers such as Blaze, Cadenza, and America flower

more or less continuously. This group should be pruned in fall or early

spring.

First cut out dead and diseased canes. After this, one or two of the oldest

canes may be removed in fall (November) or in spring (April) at ground level

to make room for new canes. Laterals, or side shoots, are shortened three to

six inches after flowering. If the climber is strong, keep five to eight main

canes and tie them to a trellis, fence, or wall.

Ramblers produce best on year-old wood, so this year's choice blooms will be

on last year's growth. Prune them immediately after flowering in July or

August. Take out all or most of the old canes that bloomed and tie new ones to

a support for next year.

Standard or tree roses are budded at the top of a tall trunk. These types

usually require specific winter protection in this area. Prune tree roses as

you would hybrid teas, by cutting branches within six to ten inches off the

base of the crown to encourage rounded, compact growth.

Miniatures, six to twelve inches high, with tiny blooms and foliage need no

special pruning. Just cut out dead growth and trim off the hips.

Spring Clean-up

Along with spring pruning comes the equally important task of cleaning up the

garden. Dispose of dead canes and pick up fallen leaves. Both leaves and canes

can harbor fungus spores. Also, if rose bushes were mounded with soil around

crowns for winter protection, gradually remove it from mid to late April.

It wasn't much fun transplanting campanulas with frozen fingers last Saturday.

The roots were as interesting as dead twigs. But the joy was in the sedum

which we divided next. The tiny leaf clusters were so delicate in pi nk and

green, we planted them with tenderness.

The best surprise was the last. Daffodil "Jack Snipe", flowered shyly, pale

yellow, six inches high.

Somehow crocuses, however splendid in purple and gold, are only heralds of

this prince of spring.

(Anthony C. Bleach coordinates and teaches the horticulture degree program at

Naugatuck Valley Community-Technical College in Waterbury.)