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Date: Fri 26-Sep-1997

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Date: Fri 26-Sep-1997

Publication: Bee

Author: DONNAM

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Wine-Wisdom-Pinot-Noir-Small

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(Wine Wisdom column on Pinot Noir, 9/26/97)

Wine Wisdom-

The Tasty Palate Of Pinot Noir

By Steve Small

In the wine business, the fall months are tasting months. Attending various

wine tastings affords me the opportunity to taste new wines, sample new

vintages, and prepare for the holiday season. As I drove home from a recent

tasting, it was Pinot Noir ("pee-no n'wahr") that made the biggest impression

on me.

Pinot Noir is also known as the headache grape because it is so hard to grow.

However, when it is grown successfully, it produces a charming, medium-bodied

red wine with delicious berry fruit flavors. Merlot is an extremely popular

red wine today. Those who enjoy the fruit flavors in a good Merlot would

probably also enjoy Pinot Noir.

The world's most acclaimed region for Pinot Noir is the Burgundy region of

eastern France. French red Burgundies are 100 percent Pinot Noir. Do not

confuse California jugs of Burgundy with French Burgundies. Comparable wines

from California are simply called Pinot Noir.

The best French red Burgundies are usually medium-bodied with nice fruit, lots

of complex flavors, and long finishes. Burgundies are generally priced from

$15 and up for a 750 ml bottle. Two of the more readily available names are

Joseph Drouhin and Louis Jadot. Vintages are critical in determining the

quality of many Burgundies. 1995 and 1996 were both good vintages for French

red Burgundies.

Back in the USA, both California and Oregon are producing tasty Pinot Noir.

There are also quite a few very average domestic Pinot Noirs. Price is also

not the most reliable factor in determining the quality of the wine.

Inexpensive Pinot Noir I have enjoyed include Dunnewood, Pepperwood, Firesteed

and Napa Ridge. In the $15 to $20-a-bottle price range, I can recommend Wild

Horse, King Estate, Sokol Blosser and Robert Mondavi.

Some of the classic food matches with Pinot Noir include salmon steaks and the

traditional Thanksgiving dinner. So if you are ready for a change, Pinot Noir

makes an excellent choice.

(Steve Small is the proprietor of Steve's Liquor Store, in Ricky's Shopping

Center at 71 Main Street South/Route 25 in Newtown.)

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