Quick Words:

BRIDES-fashions-dresses

Full Text:

BRIDES (special section) Fashions: Styles Are New, Or Old But New Again

By Barbara Allen

Associated Press

The focal point for any wedding is the bride, and The Dress.

Sheerness and opulence characterize the current trend in bridal gowns. Both

types were abundant at bridal wholesale fashion previews last fall.

For summer, the wispy sheer look will predominate, says Rachel Leonard,

fashion director for Bride's magazine. The dresses typically are worn over

non-transparent underslips, so modesty will be served. A trend toward bareness

in prior seasons continues, however, in sleeveless, strapless dresses with

halter tops or deep-cut square necklines. In another continuing trend, dress

color is tending toward ivory or cream and away from stark white.

It's a good bet brides marrying in cooler weather will select one of the more

opulent dresses, perhaps adorned with beading, embroidery, or touches of gold.

Some dresses even incorporate jewelry, such as one by Vera Wang with pearls

attached to the gown at the neck and draped down the back. Another designer

pursued the same idea with rhinestones.

Designers selected accessories such as tiara headpieces and shoes with

rhinestone buckles in keeping with the opulent theme.

Full silhouettes continue, but leaner shapes were more numerous in the

introductions. One newish style is the so-called mermaid look: the dress hugs

the body but then expands at the knee.

Ready-to-wear houses that have tested the waters of the bridal market in the

past few years showed new collections this past fall, a sign that the marriage

of ready-to-wear and bridal fashion will continue for a while.

New to the bridal market this year is Manolo. The Cuban-born designer known

for evening wear brought out a collection of arty dresses for style-conscious

brides. One example is his copper-colored slip dress with a sheer overskirt.

Most changes in bridal attire are more a matter of slight shifts than major

departures.

"Most people don't want to be too far out at a wedding," says designer Jessica

McClintock. "Every bride I have talked to tries to reach into that fantasy she

has imagined for her special day and to dress accordingly."

Ms McClintock, who designed the sprigged muslin Gunne Sax dress Hillary Rodham

wore to marry Bill Clinton on October 11, 1975, has been around long enough to

see wedding fashions come full circle.

"In the early 1970s, traditional bridal dresses became unpopular as young

people wanted to break away from the mold," Ms McClintock recalls. By the

1980s, the tide had turned and there was a resurgence of interest in

traditional weddings and wedding dresses.

Even if dresses have returned to more formality, the designer sees some

differences between past and present.

"Brides are not planning as far ahead as they used to," McClintock says.

"Instead of coming in six months or more before the wedding, some brides will

arrive at our stores and say `I'm getting married in three weeks."'

To meet the need for faster service, most bridal shops have dresses available

at short notice. Ms McClintock's shops stock many of her new designs as well

as styles from prior seasons for delivery within a week or two.

Of her own new designs, one of Ms McClintock's favorites is a long-sleeved

lace dress with a narrow silhouette and a bare back. The skirt, longer in

back, sweeps the floor like a mini-train. For warm-weather or garden weddings,

she is especially fond of a sleeveless embroidered organza dress with a

see-through back.

While the bride's dress is always the main event, attendants' dresses also got

attention at the fall bridal shows.

"This season we saw lots of sleeveless slip dresses in colors ranging from

blue, lavender and lilac, to pale beige and champagne," Ms Leonard says.

As in past seasons, dresses for attendants are more sophisticated and prettier

-- and more likely to be worn again -- than those of years ago.

The traditional three-button coat or tuxedo has replaced more unorthodox

clothing for men. As a rule, the groom's attire is differentiated from that of

the groomsmen, although it may be a simple change such as a special vest.

Unusual cummerbunds, popular a few seasons back, are being superseded by

either classic black tie and a black cummerbund or a colorful vest. Another

look that is waning is the mandarin collar with a jeweled button instead of a

tie.

"Men's clothes are moving back towards more classic looks and leaner shapes,"

declares Ms Leonard.

Bridal Attire Protocol

(Courtesy The American Wedding Guide)

Thanks to social changes over the last two decades, a bride can sometimes be

very unsure of what kind of gown may be appropriate for her wedding, say the

consultants at The American Wedding Guide, an online bridal boutique (go to

tawg.com). A few basics they suggest: any bride may wear a long, white gown,

no matter how many times she has walked down the aisle and no mater what her

age.

A bride should wear a veil and train only for her first marriage, because

these symbolically represent youth and innocence. (An older, first-time bride

or second-time bride may select a wreath of flowers or a beautiful bridal hat

in place of a billowy veil.)

The bridesmaids and mother of the bride should never wear a gown longer than

the bride's.

Popular colors today include white and eggshell. Designers are also adding

hints of pale pink, peach, blue, or mauve to the traditional white gowns.

Thanks to advancements in technology, gowns made of rayon, acetate, nylon,

polyester and even spandex can look and feel delicate and luxurious. An added

bonus: such fabrics resist wrinkling during the ceremony, are easier to

maintain, and resist yellowing over the years.

Wedding gown styles range from extravagantly beaded to simply tailored wedding

suits. Victorian styles continue to be the most popular because their high

necklines and inset sleeves create flattering proportions for every figure.